Can I Use Credit Card Rewards to Invest? Yes, Here’s How

From free lattes to funded IRAs: the before-and-after

Quick mindset shift here: the same points and cash-back you’ve been swapping for gift cards can be pointed straight into investments. Yes, literally the same rewards. If you’ve ever wondered “can I use credit card rewards to invest?” the short answer in 2025 is: absolutely, and it’s easier than it’s ever been.

Before (the usual story):

• Random redemptions for merch, travel, or a $25 gift card when you remember.
• No compounding. January rolls around and there’s nothing on your balance sheet to show for last year’s spending.
• Rewards programs feel like a scavenger hunt, not a plan.

After (the small automation that changes the whole picture):

• Your cash-back automatically sweeps into a brokerage or IRA every month. Set-and-forget.
• You build a repeatable habit, new rewards in, new shares bought. Compounding starts doing the heavy lifting.
• January shows a higher account value, not a coffee mug collection.

Concrete example, because numbers help: take a modest $50 per month in rewards redirected into a low-cost index fund. Using a conservative 7% annual return assumption (I almost said “annualized geometric mean,” but let’s keep it simple, historical U.S. stocks have averaged about 10% a year nominal from 1926-2023 per S&P Dow Jones Indices; we’re dialing that down to be cautious), ten years of $50/month could land around $8,600. That’s just math: regular contributions + time. Not a guarantee, markets move, yada yada, but it shows the direction.

And 2025 is a good time to make this switch. Rewards ecosystems are mature, broker-linked cards are common, and automation takes about five minutes. A few real-world routes: Fidelity® Rewards Visa funnels 2% into eligible Fidelity accounts (brokerage, IRA, even 529). SoFi’s card lets you direct up to 2% toward SoFi Invest. Robinhood’s Cash Card pairs round-ups and bonuses with automatic investing. Plenty of general cash-back cards let you ACH straight into a Schwab or Vanguard brokerage. You don’t need a perfect setup, just one that moves dollars without you thinking about it.

Here’s the part I love, and I say this as someone who used to hoard points like a raccoon with shiny objects: automation beats willpower. If you point $25-$100 of monthly rewards into investments, the habit compounds and the money compounds. But don’t overcomplicate it. Pick a card that pays in cash, link a brokerage or IRA, and set a monthly sweep. If you want to sanity-check the market piece: yes, stocks can be bumpy. I don’t know where the S&P 500 goes next month, and anyone who says they do is guessing. The process is the edge.

Before: Redeem for stuff, fleeting dopamine, zero compounding.
After: Auto-invest monthly, own more assets every quarter, compounding works in the background, 2025 and beyond.

How to turn points into positions (without breaking anything)

Here’s the simple, reality-based playbook that works right now. No fancy hacks, just using the pipes that already exist in 2025.

1. Redeem as cash back to your bank, then sweep to your brokerage/IRA the same week. Most cash-back issuers let you push a redemption to your checking account via ACH. Create a rule: when rewards hit, you move the same dollars to your brokerage or IRA within 3-5 days. For example, 2% back on $2,000 of monthly spend is $40/month or $480/year. Set an automatic transfer for that amount. Then, this is the key, set your brokerage’s auto-invest to buy a few days later (gives time for funds to settle). If your rewards post on the 15th, schedule auto-buy on the 19th. Tight enough to be automatic, spaced enough to avoid timing hiccups.
2. Use broker-linked cards that drop rewards directly into an investment account. The Fidelity Rewards Visa Signature pays 2% cash back and can automatically deposit into eligible Fidelity accounts (taxable brokerage, IRA, HSA, or 529). The Schwab AmEx pays 1.5% cash back deposited to Schwab (commonly into a brokerage or cash management account). For college savers, the Upromise Mastercard can sweep rewards into a linked 529 plan. Mechanically, it’s one step: spend → rewards → shares. You remove the human “I’ll do it later” risk.
3. If your card only allows statement credits, you’re still fine. The math is identical if you just free up cash flow. Example: your statement credit knocks $50 off the bill each month. Go into your brokerage and increase your recurring contribution by $50/month. Same dollars end up invested, just routed differently. Functionally the same result.
4. Automate hard, not soft. Align dates so you’re not chasing money around. My default: rewards redemption on the 1st business day after the statement closes, bank-to-broker transfer on day 2 or 3, auto-invest on day 5 or 6. (I know, I said “settlement window”, I mean just give the transfer time to clear so your buy doesn’t bounce.)

Quick reality check on expectations (and yes, I’ve messed this up before): if you funnel $60/month of rewards into a low-cost index fund and the market earns a 7% annualized return, that’s roughly $10,800 after 10 years based on a simple future value calc. It’s not lottery money, but it’s a real position you didn’t have to “budget” for. Also, this year’s market has been choppy, rate cut hopes on one day, election noise the next, so automating helps you avoid overthinking entries. You’ll catch some highs, some lows; the habit does the heavy lifting.

Two small but important notes I see people skip:

• Account type matters: Taxable brokerage gives flexibility. IRA adds tax benefits but remember annual limits and withdrawal rules (and the calendar, contributions for last year can go up to the tax deadline, but we’re in Q4 now, so think 2025 allocations). HSAs are great if your plan allows investing; medical out later can be tax-free. 529s are earmarked for education, right pocket for college goals.
• Keep costs low: Use no-transaction-fee index funds/ETFs. Fees eat the small, steady contributions fastest. If you’re paying $4.95 a trade on a $40 buy, that’s a 12% haircut. Most big brokers have $0 online ETF trades, use them.

One more human thing: if your bank takes an extra day sometimes (mine does on Fridays, drives me nuts), just pad the auto-buy by another day. Don’t kill the system because of the occasional delay, adjust it once and move on.

Bottom line mechanics you can set up this week: redeem to cash, auto-transfer to brokerage/IRA/HSA/529, auto-buy a few days later. If all you can do is statement credit, mirror the amount with a bigger recurring investment. The process is boring, but it works, and it’s live right now.

Cards and setups that make this easy in 2025

If you want the “swipe → invest” pipe with very little handholding, a few combos just work. I’ve run versions of these in my own setup for years, tweaked them a bit earlier this year, and they still behave. I’ll say it again: this isn’t about chasing promos. It’s about reliability and low friction, because consistency beats “maybe I’ll remember on the 28th.”

• Fidelity Rewards Visa Signature: It’s the boring champ. Flat 2% cash back when you direct rewards into eligible Fidelity accounts. You can push into a taxable brokerage, IRA, HSA (if it’s with Fidelity), or a 529. The win is the direct deposit into the account you pick, no middle step. Set the card to auto-redeem into, say, your Roth IRA, then create an auto-invest for a target ETF a few days later. If I sound nerdy saying “routing,” I mean “send your rewards straight where you invest, no clicks.”
• Schwab Investor Card from American Express: A clean 1.5% cash back that lands in your Charles Schwab brokerage. The rate’s lower than 2%, but the simplicity is top-notch. For folks already trading or buying ETFs at Schwab (zero-commission ETFs are table stakes now), it’s almost set-and-forget. I like this for people who don’t want to juggle a dozen categories.
• Bank of America + Merrill combo: With Preferred Rewards Platinum Honors status, fixed-rate cards get a big lift. A 1.5% base becomes up to 2.625% effective cash back when redeemed as cash and then invested at Merrill. Categories on some BofA cards scale too (e.g., 3% categories can step up to 5.25% with the 75% boost). It’s the highest no-drama earn rate I’ve seen for a flat card when you keep your assets in the BofA/Merrill ecosystem.
• SoFi Credit Card: When you redeem into SoFi Invest (or other SoFi products), rewards have historically mapped to up to 2% value. It’s not always the highest net earn if you’re chasing category cards, but if your money already lives at SoFi and you want one hub, it’s practical.

One conversational note, because I’ve tripped on this: it’s easy to assume the redemption will always hit your account the same day. It won’t. Fridays can lag, bank holidays stretch timelines, and occasionally an issuer changes a minimum redemption threshold with little fanfare. I build a 2-3 business day gap before the auto-buy. Annoying? A bit. Worth it? Yep.

Quick setup pattern I like: auto-redeem to brokerage → schedule a weekly transfer buffer (if needed) → auto-buy a low-cost ETF. If your card only allows statement credit, mirror the amount by raising your recurring investment the same day.

Reality check: issuers tweak terms. Confirm, in writing on the issuer’s site, the current earning rates, eligible account types (e.g., IRAs, 529s, HSAs), minimum redemption amounts, and whether automatic deposits are supported. Don’t set up a whole automation only to learn your IRA can’t take that specific reward deposit, or that your 2% is actually 1% for statement credits.

My take, given where we are in Q4: keep the pipeline simple and keep fees near zero. If short‑term yields are still decent relative to your cash needs, fine, but the point of this system is steady equity exposure with reward dollars you’re already generating. Get the deposit flow right first; you can improve the ETF mix later without breaking the pipe.

What’s it actually worth? Quick math you can sanity-check

What’s it actually worth? Quick math you can sanity‑check

I like numbers that fit on a napkin. Here’s the napkin math, with no fairy‑tale assumptions about 15% returns or perfect timing. We’ll keep it boring and repeatable, which, annoyingly, is what actually works.

• Baseline: $2,000/month of everyday spend at 2% cash back = $40/month. Redirect that to your brokerage or IRA and you’ve got $480/year invested. That’s literally lunch money turning into shares.
• Stretch: $4,000/month at a 2.5% effective rate (promo categories + base rate, it happens) = $100/month. That’s $1,200/year invested. Not heroic, just organized.
• Even small: $50/month of rewards you’d otherwise let pile up as gift cards = $600/year. Over 15 years at a reasonable 6-8% annual return, you’re talking several thousand in gains. Not retirement money by itself, but real money you didn’t have to “save” in the traditional sense.

Now, compounding without a headache:

Back‑of‑envelope: $1,000/year invested for 20 years at a 7% annual return grows to roughly $41,000. That’s not a prediction; it’s just the math of steady contributions plus compound growth.

How this plays with real life in Q4: holiday spend typically spikes. If you’re putting $3,000 on the card in November-December and your effective rate is 2% after all the category noise, that’s $60 in rewards a month rolling into actual shares. Two months of that is $120 you didn’t have to think about. Not life‑changing, but it stacks.

To keep us honest, I’ll anchor the return assumptions to history, not hopium. Over long periods, broad U.S. equities have produced mid‑single to high‑single digit real returns and ~9-10% nominal depending on the window (Ibbotson/CRSP series through 2023 shows that ballpark). If we use 6-8% for mental math, we’re being, if anything, a tad conservative in nominal terms. Could the next 10-15 years be lower? Sure. That’s why I’m using ranges and calling out the estimate for what it is, an estimate.

Here’s a very plain way to think about it, step by step:

1. Pick your monthly spend number (say $2,500) and your effective earn rate (say 2.2% after everything).
2. Monthly rewards ≈ $2,500 × 2.2% = $55. Annualize: about $660.
3. Run a quick mental compounding check: at 7% for 15 years, a rule‑of‑thumb multiplier on steady yearly contributions is around 26-27. That puts you near $17k-$18k. Good enough for planning without a spreadsheet.

Am I oversimplifying? Yeah, a little. Months won’t be identical, issuers change earn rates, and some of you will miss a redemption window or two, we’re human. But the direction is right: turn passive rewards into automatic equity buys and let time do the heavy lifting.

Two last notes I don’t want to bury:

• Check your effective rate. Flat 2% cards still exist this year, and many people quietly average 2.2-2.8% by layering rotating categories, dining/grocery boosts, or bank relationship bumps. Just verify the current terms on the issuer’s site before you assume anything.
• Keep costs near zero. If your broker charges for reinvestments (most don’t now), batch monthly. Fees destroy the small‑dollar compounding more than market wiggles do.

If this sounds too small to matter, run it forward against your actual budget. Even $480-$1,200 per year, repeated, turns into a line item on your net worth statement. And that’s the whole point, we’re not hunting unicorns; we’re skimming what’s already there and letting compounding do the boring, productive thing.

Taxes and bookkeeping: keep it clean, keep it legal

Quick sanity check first: personal credit card rewards that come from spending are usually treated as purchase rebates, not income. The IRS says this outright, rebates reduce what you paid (IRS Publication 525, 2024). So if your card kicks back 2% on groceries and you send that cash to your brokerage, the reward itself isn’t taxable just because you invested it. It’s basically like the store gave you a discount and you chose to invest the discount.

Business cards are a little different in practice, not in theory. Same rebate concept, but it affects your deduction. If your LLC buys $1,000 in software and earns $20 back, your deductible expense is $980, not $1,000. That’s not scary, it’s just math. The part people trip over is record‑keeping, if you export transactions into your accounting tool, tag the reward as a contra‑expense so your P&L reflects the net. If you’re batching redemptions monthly because, say, your cash back posts at statement close, track the period it corresponds to, not when you hit transfer.

Different bucket: referral bonuses and bank account bonuses. Those can be taxable. Card referral bonuses are often reported on a 1099‑MISC if you cross $600 in a calendar year with that issuer (that $600 reporting threshold is the current general 1099‑MISC rule). Bank account bonuses are usually interest and show up on a 1099‑INT if you get $10 or more in a year (standard 1099‑INT threshold). So your $300 checking bonus? Expect it to be taxable as interest income in the year you got it. That’s separate from card spend rewards.

Your investment basis, the thing that matters when you eventually sell, is simply the cash you put in. If $50 of cash back hits your brokerage and you buy $50 of an ETF in your taxable account, your basis is $50. When you sell later, gains (or losses) are calculated off that $50. Dividends and interest earned after that are taxed under normal rules for the account type: taxable brokerage means current‑year tax on dividends/interest and capital gains when realized; IRAs mean tax‑deferred (traditional) or tax‑free qualified withdrawals (Roth) under the usual rules; 529 plans grow tax‑deferred with tax‑free qualified education withdrawals. Funding those accounts with rewards doesn’t change the tax character of the account, no magic, but no penalties for using “rebate dollars” either.

One practical nit I keep seeing: some brokers aggregate fractional share DRIPs and auto‑buys, and if you move cash back weekly it gets messy to reconcile. I batch monthly, note the confirmation number, and save a PDF, yes, I know, I sound like your bookkeeper, but it’s 90 seconds that prevents a 90‑minute basis reconstruction later. If you’re running a side LLC, same idea, but put the rewards sweep into the equity account on your books so you’re not accidentally double‑counting income.

Two tiny edge cases to keep you out of emails with your CPA at 10pm: if an issuer gives you a reward without a purchase requirement (think: a $200 “goodwill” credit unrelated to spending), that can be taxable as a promo. Also, statement credits reduce basis in what you bought; cash deposits you move yourself don’t change purchase prices retroactively, so track whether the reward hit as a credit on the card or as cash to checking/brokerage.

Context for this year: high‑yield accounts are still paying roughly 4-5% APY as we sit here in Q4, and money market yields are hanging up there too, so if a bank bonus arrives and sits for a month before you invest, that interest is just regular 1099‑INT fodder. No big deal, just don’t ignore it. And yes, I once found a lonely $11.32 1099‑INT in March, annoying, but cheaper than an IRS notice.

TL;DR rules that actually matter: personal card rewards = non‑taxable rebates; business card rewards reduce deductible expenses; referral and bank bonuses can be taxable (1099‑MISC at $600+, 1099‑INT at $10+); basis equals dollars invested; everything after that is taxed the normal way for the account it’s in.

• Source notes: IRS Pub 525 (2024) covers rebates as non‑income; 1099‑MISC $600 and 1099‑INT $10 thresholds are current federal reporting rules. Terms vary by issuer, so check your 2025 statements.
• Bookkeeping tip: set a recurring calendar nudge to export statements each month; you’ll thank your April self.

Avoid the gotchas that erase your gains

Here’s the un-fun part. The “math that ruins the magic.” Credit card rewards are great for feeding an investing habit, but the common mistakes I see every week can wipe out the benefit faster than a bad earnings print on a Friday afternoon.

Interest > rewards, every time. A 2% cash-back card returns $20 per $1,000 of spend. Carry that $1,000 as a revolving balance at ~20% APR for a year and you’re on the hook for about $200 of interest. That’s a 10x give-back. The Federal Reserve’s G.19 data shows the average APR on accounts that actually pay interest was around 22% in 2024, and has hovered near the low‑20s in 2025 too. In this rate environment, rewards don’t outrun interest, ever. Autopay in full is non‑negotiable. Set it, verify it, and then spot‑check after statement close. I’ve fat‑fingered a bank login before; late fees and interest don’t care.

Annual fees have to earn their keep. If a $95 fee card nets you $180 of investable cash back after you account for your actual spend pattern, sure. But compare to a no‑fee 2% option: $30,000 of annual spend at 2% = $600 with zero fee drag. If your “premium” setup plus fee gives you less than that, the story you’re telling yourself is nicer than the math. Reprice it each Q4 when issuers tweak benefits. Yes, I cancel or downgrade more often than I’d like to admit.

Redemption traps. If your goal is investing, keep redemptions in cash. The merchandise catalogs look fun, but the value is usually lousy, often below 1 cent per point based on issuer disclosures and third‑party comparisons I’ve run over the years. Compare that to a clean 1¢ cash redemption (or 2% straight cash-back) that you can shove to your brokerage the same week. Turning $50 of points into a $35 blender is… not compounding.

Travel vs. cash, be honest. If you reliably book premium cabins or peak hotels at 2-5 cents per point, okay, that can beat cash. But measure it against the certainty of investing cash every single month. Markets this year have been choppy around rate-cut handicapping; getting dollars invested consistently has been the winning behavior, not waiting for perfect redemptions or timing. And if your travel plans slip (hello, schedule changes), that theoretical value evaporates.

Liquidity and risk. Once your rewards land in a brokerage, prices move. Use long-term funds for long-term goals. Don’t earmark invested rewards for next month’s rent or the holiday flights, keep a cash buffer for that. Settlement and transfer times still take a couple of business days, and volatility doesn’t pause because you need cash on Tuesday. I’ll come back to brokerage transfer timing later… or did I say that already?

Real talk for a second: autopay on, pay in full, cash-out redemptions unless you’re a proven travel hacker, and make the fee math beat a plain no‑fee 2% card. Everything else is optimization theater. And, small note I forgot earlier, if your card lets you auto‑redeem to a brokerage monthly, do it; batching quarterly sounds tidy but adds the human “I’ll get to it” risk. Been there, missed that.

• Quick reference: Fed G.19 (2024-2025) shows average APR on accounts assessed interest near the low‑20% range; a 2% cash-back rate can’t offset that if you revolve.
• Rule of thumb: value points at 1¢ cash unless you consistently realize higher; avoid merchandise redemptions that price under 1¢.
• Cash flow first: invest surplus; don’t plan on selling investments to cover near‑term bills. Different buckets, different horizons.

Tie it together: set the autopilot and get out of the way

Okay, time to make this boring on purpose. Why? Because boring gets repeated, and repeated is where the money piles up. Here’s the system I use with clients (and my own household when I’m not over-tinkering):

1. Pick your lane. Either: (a) a broker-linked card that auto-sweeps rewards into a taxable account or IRA, or (b) a plain 2% cash-back card that redeems straight to checking, paired with an automatic transfer into your brokerage/IRA the day after rewards land. Option A is tidy; Option B is flexible and usually higher-yield if your card is better than the broker’s house card. I lean B unless the broker-linked rate is competitive.
2. Set the schedule. Line up the auto-invest to hit right after your statement close, when rewards post. Most cards close on a consistent day each month. If your statement cuts on the 12th, schedule the redemption for the 13th and the brokerage auto-pull for the 14th. Why not wait a week? Because people forget; software doesn’t.
3. Name the goal. Spell it out in the transfer memo so you stop second-guessing: “Roth IRA top-off,” “Emma 529,” or “S&P 500 index fund, set it and nap.” Clarity cuts the little voice that tries to repurpose the cash for a shiny thing. And yep, using a boring S&P 500 index fund is fine, especially with rates still elevated and cash paying decently; the equity premium still matters over time.

Will the APR math still matter? Yes, always. Fed G.19 data from 2024-2025 shows average APR on accounts that actually accrue interest sitting in the low‑20% range. A 2% cash-back stream does not beat carrying a balance, so autopay in full stays non‑negotiable. This is the guardrail that keeps the whole system from drifting into the ditch.

Quick reality check on timing in Q4: rewards typically post within a day of the statement close, but some issuers lag 1-3 days. Test once, then lock the cadence. We’re heading into holiday spend season right now, which can spike rewards totals, and mistakes. A small overdraft buffer in checking or a 1-2 day offset between deposit and brokerage pull avoids the “whoops, NSF” email.

• Quarterly check, not monthly. Every 3 months, spend 10 minutes: verify rewards posted, skim issuer terms (caps, category shifts, clawback rules), and nudge allocations if your plan changed. That’s it. Quarterly is the sweet spot, enough to catch changes, not enough to invite tinkering.
• Tax wrappers matter. If you’re using a Roth IRA, make sure the auto-transfer points to the correct tax year and that you’re under the annual limits. For 2025, keep your usual IRS contribution limits in mind and don’t crowd the last week of December; processors jam up.
• Keep the core simple. One main card, one checking account, one brokerage. Side quests make good anecdotes, bad systems.

Confused about whether a broker-linked card is “worth it”? Ask two things: Does the cash-back rate equal or beat your best general card, and does it automatically invest without extra clicks? If yes, great. If not, general cash-back to checking + auto-transfer wins 90% of the time.

Back to the opening question: can you use credit card rewards to invest? Yes, and if you systematize it, next year’s you will barely notice the effort, but you’ll notice the balance.

One last nudge, because I’ve tripped on this: set calendar reminders for the quarterly check, and label the brokerage rule with the exact fund/ticker. When markets get choppy (they do), that pre-commitment keeps you from chasing heat or freezing up. The system does the heavy lifting; you just keep the lights on.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I set up my credit card rewards to go straight into investments?

A: Pick a broker-linked cash‑back card, toggle auto‑redeem to your account, and test with a small amount. Practically: 1) Choose a card that supports direct deposits into a brokerage/IRA (Fidelity Rewards Visa routes 2% to eligible Fidelity accounts; SoFi routes up to 2% to SoFi Invest; Robinhood pairs round‑ups/bonuses with its Cash Card). 2) In the card app, set “auto‑redeem” to your brokerage, IRA, or 529. 3) In the broker, set a default purchase (e.g., buy an S&P 500 index fund/ETF on arrival). 4) Let it run monthly. That’s it, no PhD, just a toggle and a default buy. If your card only does statement credit, redeem to bank cash, then set an auto‑transfer to your broker and a recurring buy. Two steps instead of one, but same end result.

Q: What’s the difference between redeeming rewards for cash or gift cards versus auto‑sweeping into a brokerage or IRA?

A: Short version from the article: gift cards and random merch feel good now; auto‑sweep builds assets that can compound. The example in the piece is $50 a month at a 7% assumed return, roughly $8,600 after 10 years. Same rewards, totally different outcome because you’re creating a repeatable habit, not one‑off redemptions. Also, some broker‑linked cards (Fidelity, SoFi, Robinhood) make the sweep automatic, which removes the “I’ll do it later” problem that nukes compounding.

Q: Is it better to aim rewards at a taxable brokerage, a Traditional IRA, or a Roth IRA?

A: Depends on your goal and tax bracket. My rule of thumb: 1) If you’re still building an emergency fund or want flexibility, send rewards to a taxable brokerage, liquidity matters. 2) If you expect a lower tax rate in retirement, Traditional IRA contributions may help (they can be deductible; your investments grow tax‑deferred). 3) If you expect a higher or similar tax rate later, Roth IRA is gold, pay tax now, enjoy tax‑free growth/withdrawals later. Note limits: in 2024, IRA contributions cap at $7,000 ($8,000 if 50+). 2025 limits may have changed, check current IRS guidance. Also watch Roth income phase‑outs. Tactically, I like: employer match first (401k), then Roth IRA with rewards if eligible, then taxable for extra. And yes, even small rewards help fill these buckets, free money is free money.

Q: Should I worry about taxes or tracking when I invest points and cash‑back?

A: A little, but it’s manageable. Generally, credit card rewards earned from spending are treated as rebates, not income, no 1099 for those redemptions. Bank account sign‑up bonuses or interest are different and can be taxable (1099‑INT/1099‑MISC). Once cash hits a taxable brokerage, normal rules apply: dividends and realized capital gains are taxable; IRAs defer or eliminate taxes depending on Traditional vs Roth. Cost basis: auto‑sweeps create lots of tiny lots, your broker tracks basis and holding periods automatically. Keep the confirmations anyway (habit from my trading desk days). Bottom line: use tax‑advantaged accounts when you can, and in taxable, prefer broad, low‑turnover index ETFs to keep taxes tame.

@article{can-i-use-credit-card-rewards-to-invest-yes-heres-how,
    title   = {Can I Use Credit Card Rewards to Invest? Yes, Here’s How},
    author  = {Beeri Sparks},
    year    = {2025},
    journal = {Bankpointe},
    url     = {https://bankpointe.com/articles/use-credit-card-rewards-invest/}
}